90°+ heat plus 80%+ humidity — Florence summers are punishing on HVAC equipment. Your AC isn’t just cooling air, it’s also pulling gallons of water out of it every hour. Here’s what that does to your system and how to manage it.
“Cooling” your home is mostly about removing moisture. Dry 78° air feels comfortable. Humid 78° air feels muggy and hot. In Florence, an AC has to do double duty — drop the temperature AND wring 5–15 gallons of water per day out of indoor air.
This is the classic sign that humidity is winning. The AC is cooling but not dehumidifying enough. Causes: oversized AC (cools fast, shuts off before removing moisture), thermostat set too high, duct leaks pulling humid attic air in, or an undersized AC that runs forever but never quite catches up.
If you see fuzzy spots on supply registers or ceiling around vents, condensation is forming because surfaces are too cold relative to humid air. The fix is usually a UV light in the air handler (kills mold spores) plus humidity reduction.
Wood absorbs moisture. When indoor humidity stays above 60% for weeks, doors stick, drawers swell, hardwood floors cup. This is a sign your AC isn’t controlling humidity — typically the system needs a refrigerant check, drain line clearing, or a whole-home dehumidifier add-on.
Your AC produces water. That water runs into a drain pan, then drains out via a PVC line — usually outside or into a utility sink. If the line clogs (algae, dust), the pan overflows. Annual drain line flush is part of our maintenance.
For homes that can’t shake humidity even with a healthy AC, a whole-home dehumidifier installed in the ductwork removes moisture independently of cooling. Costs $1,800–$3,200 installed. Solves muggy basements, cool-but-clammy rooms, and persistent mold conditions. More on indoor air quality →
Set your thermostat fan to “Auto,” not “On.” When the fan runs continuously, it picks up moisture from the wet evaporator coil and re-evaporates it into the air. Auto mode lets the moisture drain away properly.
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